21st November FEAST OF MADONNA DELLA SALUTE

Every November 21st Venice celebrates the liberation from a dreadful disease which affected the whole of Northern Europe between 1629 and 1633 (as Alessandro Manzoni reports in “Promessi Sposi”).

In this desperate situation at that time, the Doge promised to build a church for the Madonna to rid the city of the disease, precisely in the area (S. Vio) from which the infection had started. The basilica was built according to a project by architect Baldassare Longhena, with an octagonal floor plan with elegant Baroque forms, blending in perfectly with the existing urban scene.

In the days before the anniversary, which is very popular with the population, a votive bridge is being built from boats that connect the two shores of the Grand Canal, S. Moisè and S. Maria del Giglio, allowing all pilgrims, who carry a candle to the altar of the Madonna a lighter river, that she can stand up for their health. The typical dish of this festival is the “Castradina”, a soup made from salted and smoked mutton, introduced at that time by the nearby “Schiavonia” (the coastal strip that includes Dalmatia, Albania and Bosnia). It is made from cabbage, onions, vegetables and wine.

Those who have the opportunity to be in Venice on the day of their health breathe an atmosphere of sincere and heartfelt participation, not bigotry, closely linked to the history and traditions of the city. The secular aspect is no less fascinating: benches full of sweets, colorful balloons and toys placed outside the church make it cheerful and carefree for children and adults.